Posted by Anne

Elizabeth and I have written many letters to each other over the past 5 years.  Many.  Each is special, and each is distinct.  But every so often, there are letters—stories—that stand out from the others.  Elizabeth’s favorite has always been my “Stink Burger Letter”, which she referenced back in August.  We’ve received at least one request for the Stink Burger story (thank you Kitchen Witch!), and since it’s an apropos story for Life in Pencil, I will indulge (or bore) you.  Enjoy.  

Once upon a time, I decided to get my PhD.  And deep into my doctoral education, I temporarily burned out.  I was tired.  Weary.  Done.  Confused.  And so I did what any privileged 20-something would do.  I went on a road trip—alone—on a self proclaimed “summer of self-discovery and relaxation”.  My journey took me coast to coast, and along the way, I landed in Flagstaff, Arizona.  This was to be my home-base for some important activities.  In typical Anne fashion, I had it all planned:  1) Hike in Grand Canyon, 2) Fly-fish in Grand Canyon, 3) Gain insight about my purpose in this world while doing said activities.  Good list, right? 

I made it through my Grand Canyon hike.  I’ll spare you the details, as I know you’re more concerned about the Stink Burger situation.  Suffice to say that the hike was beautiful, dusty, lonely, and hot as hell.  So that evening, I did what any wise traveler would do when feeling physically exhausted and lonely.  I looked for a really good meal. 

Enter…the Stink Burger.  I got back to town, cleaned off the canyon dust, and headed to a nearby microbrewery.  The “Stink Burger” had come highly recommended, and I’m not one to argue with layers of meat, roasted garlic cloves (hence the name), and an onion ring piled high on a bun.  I settled into a beat-up wooden chair, and the waiter looked at me a little suspiciously, clearly wondering why this slightly sad-looking woman was alone…in a bar…ordering a big greasy burger.  I matched his gaze, and then I ordered that Stink Burger with confidence!  With gusto!  It arrived, and I was thrilled to tuck in, having truly earned my dose of saturated fat.  (Hiking + existential soul-searching burns tons of calories, in case you’re wondering.)  The hunks of garlic were soft and mild, and the onion ring was so perfect I considered ordering an entire side of them.  I wrote a letter to my sweetie (now my hubby), read a few pages of a book, and washed down that mighty stink burger with a malty brown ale.  I was feeling better already.  And then… 

The crippling food poisoning didn’t hit until the next morning, getting ready to head out for activity #2, fly-fishing.  And when it hit, it hit big.  There I was, a pitiful lonely traveler trapped in my room in an Arizona hostel, puking my guts out.  And let me tell you folks, a hostel is not the ideal location if you’re suffering the ramifications of a poorly cooked Stink Burger.  I kept hoofing it down the hall to the bathroom, where well-meaning, patchouli-scented hippies would stare at me, but never speak.  I must have looked odd to them—pale, unhappy, and lacking a guitar in my hand or a mellow smile on my face. 

I spent the next 24 hours face-down on my hostel mattress, listening to the sound of the train outside my window, and replayed the same question, over and over in my head.  What the hell am I doing here?  I wished I had a friend with me.  My boyfriend.  My sister.  ANYONE who knew me.  I thought I felt lonely at the rim of the Canyon.  Nope…this was loneliness.  Puking over a Stink Burger in a likewise stinky hostel. 

I tried to remember why I was taking this trip.  Something to do with feeling overwhelmed, growing weary of graduate school, and needing an escape.  And I guess I thought I needed to “escape” totally on my own.  I was only partially right.

That entire trip, I felt free, which was exactly how I wanted to feel.  But I’d never expected that freedom to feel so hollow.  Back at the canyon’s rim, I was surrounded by people…couples, families, and grandparents in embroidered t-shirts and awkward-looking baseball caps.  For that whole day, I stared at people.  At little kids delightfully licking ice cream cones.  At parents attempting to take pictures of their too-cool-for-canyon teenagers. And I stared at the canyon—surreal and massive. 

Did my “summer of self-discovery” accomplish what I had intended?  Well, yes and no.  I learned that as much as I love adventures and exploration, I had reached a point where I was very ready to share them with other people.  It was the beginning of my need to feel…you guessed it…settled.  And I learned something else.  In case you’re wondering, you can’t plan the contents of your own existential awakening.  And my Stink Burger was proof.  

The End. 

Ever gone on a trip to shake things up?  Discover yourself?  Any traveling misadventures to share?