Mar 3 2010

Failure

Posted by Anne

AirplaneSometimes, I can share successful life in pencil moments.  The moments when I’m able to say I achieved my goal of stepping back, setting aside my plans, and allowing a moment to unfold naturally. 

Nope, this is not one of those posts.  This is a post about failure, and starting over.

Over the weekend, I traveled to the Midwest for a whirlwind weekend to visit family, and celebrate my grandfather’s birthday.  With only 3 days to make it from the Northwest to the Midwest, I knew this weekend wasn’t about rest and relaxation—more about capitalizing on family bonding time. 

I was convinced, and I mean convinced my flight left at 5:00pm.  Imagine my surprise, if you will, when I stopped off in my parent’s study around 11:30 to print my boarding pass and stumbled upon the following statement:  Flight departs at 1:01pmWoops. 

After some quick calculations and a reality check, I knew I wouldn’t miss the flight.  That wasn’t the issue.  The issue was this:  I hadn’t planned the afternoon to go like this.  You see, I don’t get to see my family as often as I’d like, and every moment is precious. I’d planned an afternoon.  And my plans were shot.  Cue the meltdown.

The reason my reaction was such a failure?  It should have been an opportunity to meet some life in pencil goals, which I failed to meet.  Here’s a play-by-play of possibly appropriate life in pencil reactions, and MY reaction.

Situation #1:  Plane departs in an hour and a half, and I haven’t packed. 

Appropriate reaction:  “Yikes!  It’s a good thing I checked that flight time when I did!   Hey Mom and Sis—Think you could give me a hand packing while I finish printing my boarding pass??” 

My reaction:  Burst into tears and watch mom and sister swirl around my room packing my things in a super-human feat of tidy and swift folding. 

Situation #2:  I realize I will not have time to accompany my sister on our planned lunchtime outing to one of our favorite childhood greasy spoons. 

Appropriate reaction:  “Bummer!  If that restaurant has been around since I was 5, I’m pretty sure it’ll be there next time I’m in town.”

My reaction:  Pout, and purchase some very dry pretzels at the airport that have zero hope of cheering me up.    

Situation #3:  I must forego my plans to kiss and hug my adorable nephew about 10 times before boarding my plane because he’s taking a necessary nap.

Appropriate reaction:  Okay, this one could have deserved a tear or two.  And then I could have allowed everyone to remind me that I’ll see him again in 3 WEEKS. 

MY reaction:  Inconsolable weeping, as though I’d never see the child again. 

Situation #4:  I had planned to say a leisurely goodbye to my parents, instead of a frantic one.    

Appropriate reaction:  Stick with the plan.  I TOTALLY had time to say goodbye to everyone in a non-dramatic, non-frenetic, eminently normal manner. 

MY reaction:  Not so normal.  Pouty hugs and feeble smiles. 

Situation #5:  Sitting at my gate (with time to spare), I realize I’d been a total drama-queen and failed to act in a normal (and “life in pencil”) manner. 

Appropriate reaction:  I could have simply said to myself, “Wow, this is not how I’d like to react in future situations.  I’m not going to waste more tears judging myself and feeling embarrassed.  I’ll simply reaction different next time, and hey…it’s bloggable.” 

My reaction:  Eventually I did find this reaction within myself…but not until I reached the Denver airport.  I allowed myself to spend the first leg of my flight feeling guilty and childish. 

You see?  FAILURE.  And all because I had to reconfigure 4 hours of my life.  I’m not happy with my reaction, but this is why Beginnings are so important.  I can’t erase that afternoon, and I can’t erase my reaction.  But I can start over.  React differently next time.  Redeem myself.  Here is my new beginning…my vow to myself:

Next time I encounter a hitch in my plans—I will:

1. Ask myself if I want to act rationally, or dramatically.

2. Pay attention to what’s going right instead of what’s going wrong. 

3. Act flexible, even when I don’t feel flexible.

4. Spare others from the drama of my rigid planning.

5. Acknowledge my anxiety and frustration without judging it.

How are you at going with the flow?  Have you ever unreasonably freaked out, and had to start over?  When your plans change and you have to change your vision of your day, how do you react?  How about when life takes an unexpected turn? 

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Feb 18 2010

Happy Coincidences

Posted by Elizabeth

I’m planning an April trip to Europe, which will involve two and a half weeks sampling the cuisine of Italy, staying on a family farm in Slovenia, and island-hopping through Croatia.   This trip was rather spur of the moment – when I found out I was pregnant, I insisted we take a final trip as a childless couple, and I knew exactly where I wanted to go.  After cashing in all of the miles we earned on our round-the-world trip last year, netting us two round-trip tickets to Rome, the planning began in earnest.  Soon I found myself doing what I do best:  pouring over Lonely Planet guidebooks, calling friends who had traveled in this part of the world, deciphering Italian train schedules (impossible), comparing ferry routes, checking the weather, and memorizing the food section of the Italian phrasebook.  The irony is that I embarked on all of this planning knowing full well that the best experiences of this trip will be those I never plan.

How do I know this?  First, because I’ve had the good fortune of traveling a fair amount, this is always the case (except, of course, when you show up without reservations in Lovina, Bali, during the Ramadan holiday, where the entire population of Muslim Indonesia is vacationing).  And second, because I agree with a recent article I read on maximizing happy coincidences while traveling, which states that “accidents — good and bad — happen when we’re away. More so, maybe, because there’s a certain randomness about travel — a sense that the unexpected can happen.”  The article argues that it’s easy to focus on the bad accidents – getting fined for not understanding how a foreign toll road works, getting scammed for five Euros, misunderstanding movie schedules, shadowy rodents running through train cars in India (all of which have happened to me, by the way).  But the flip side is that, for every bad accident, there is usually a good one, and these are what make travel – and life itself – fun and interesting.  And it’s this duality that explains the reason I love – and loathe – traveling.  I am an accidental tourist in sheep’s clothing, a planner by nature who loves the idea of traveling spontaneously, but who fights it tooth and nail.  So how can we maximize happy coincidences – both in travel and in everyday life? According to the article there are four ways to do this — and I bet our bright readers can find even more.

The fabulous mansion in Buenos Aires, before it was not-so-fabulous.

The fabulous mansion in Buenos Aires, before it was not-so-fabulous.

First, realize that “sometimes, bad accidents can lead to good things.”  While traveling in Buenos Aires, we had the good fortune of staying in a gorgeous old mansion in the heart of the city, which catered to long-term travelers.  Sure, the accommodations were a little rustic, but we loved the vibe of this place so much that we arranged to stay an extended period after a brief jaunt to Uruguay.  The night before we departed for Uruguay, the owner informed us that he had made a mistake with the reservation, and that our room wouldn’t be available upon our return.  (Insert “not my problem” shoulder shrug here.)  Being the peak of high season, we unsuccessfully scrambled to find other accommodations at the 11th hour (literally), finally resigning ourselves to dealing with it when we returned.  The problem was, we had just bought a boatload of leather goods hours earlier, which we had planned to stash in the mansion while we were in Uruguay.  Desperate, we called a friend of my mother-in-law, who had told us to call him if we needed help.  Not only did he store my boots and purses while we were away, he also offered us to stay at his gorgeous high-rise apartment in the heart of the swanky Recoleta neighborhood upon our return, where we had access to real air conditioning and a bathtub.  In this case, a bad accident lead to a very good thing.

A very memorable afternoon.

A very memorable afternoon.

The article also advises to “be open to new experiences.”  This, in my mind, is one of the cardinal rules of travel (and life).  On our trip we traveled into the heart of Portugal’s Duoro Valley, the seat of the country’s port wine production.  We nosed our rental car down dusty lanes in search of the area’s new museum, only to find it closed when we arrived.  Disappointed, we began our long drive back to town when Maikael spotted a car parked outside a neighboring property that hadn’t been there when we arrived.  “I’m going to see if they know anything about the museum,” said Maikael, hopping out the car as I slumped in the front seat.  After a few minutes, I glanced in the rear view mirror to see Maikael standing next to a weathered old man, a silly grin slapped on his face, beckoning me with swooping arm motions.  While the old man – who owned the surrounding vineyard – called his neighbor to open the museum, he invited us to wait with him and his friends.  For the next hour we propped ourselves on ancient farm equipment and shared glasses of syrupy moscatel wine, talking life in our passable Sportugese.  What could have been a forgettable experience was one of the most memorable afternoons of our entire trip…one that never would have transpired had we been unwilling to take the leap out of our car and into a new experience.

Worth the diversion.

Worth the diversion.

Adjust your perspective. Sometimes, the direst situations end up being fortuitous, if we can just look at the world through a different lens.  After hearing horror stories about traveling in India I wasn’t sure I wanted to go anymore, even though we had planned to spend three weeks traversing the northern part of the country.  Looking for alternative plans, we discovered that Bhutan – a country I had recently become enchanted with – was only a short plane ride from Delhi, where our ticket had already routed us (and when in life is Bhutan ever going to be a short plane ride from anywhere?).  After making some last-minute adjustments to our itinerary, we cut our time in India in half and planned a side trip to Bhutan, a highlight of our entire eight-month journey.  Looking back, I can’t imagine that trip without Bhutan, and our willingness to change plans midstream and craft a bad situation into a good one made it possible.

Timing is everything. Is there any greater truism?  One scorching August day, we found ourselves in need of transportation from Pamukkale to Goreme, Turkey, a long, dusty ride that required a few bus transfers and an expensive ticket at the height of tourist season.  As we investigated different bus companies around town, the schedules were quickly filling (or so they told us) and the ticket prices were rising with the mercury outside.   We were getting desperate when we stumbled into a tourist agency that, upon telling them the date and time we were interested in departing, exclaimed, “You’re in luck!  We have a bus that needs to be returned to Goreme that evening.  It will travel direct to the town, no stops, and the tickets are half price.”  It seemed too good to be true, but after discussing our options and gaining some assurances, we bought the tickets.  Sure, this happy coincidence could have easily turned into a bad accident, but as promised, because we were in the right place at the right time – and willing to take a calculated leap of faith – we scored cheap tickets on a direct bus that was roomier than any of the other companies’.

Us and our Croatian friends at Sintra

Us and our Croatian friends at Sintra

Of course there are lots of other happy coincidences I could share with you, from the amazing steakhouse we discovered in Buenos Aires vis a vis NPR’s Bob Mondello, to the unforgettable hotel we stumbled upon in Ubud, Bali, because we waited until the last minute and it was the only reservation request that anybody responded to.  But I’ll leave you with a final example of a happy coincidence.  While staying at a hostel in Lisbon, Portugal, we found ourselves in the lobby one evening, trying to decode the mysteries of the Portuguese train schedule that was mounted to the wall.  As our fingers etched the route from Lisbon to Sintra, a nearby historic town, another couple approached from the back, commenting that they were planning on taking the same trip the next morning.  After chatting for a few minutes and sizing one another up, we quickly decided to travel together the next day, and what I remember from that experience is not the gorgeous Moorish town but spending a wonderful day together with a fantastic couple from Croatia.  Anton, the husband, had been to Sintra before and expertly played tour guide.  We laughed and joked and shared stories from our countries over a rustic Portuguese lunch.  And when we go to Croatia in April, we will visit our “happy coincidence” friends on their tiny island of Krk.

Am I going to stop planning? Probably not.  But if I can plan with the expectation that I’ll throw those plans out the moment something better comes along, I’ll be the better for it.

Are you an “accidental tourist” (or not)?  What are some of the happiest coincidences you can recall while traveling?  What are other ways that we can maximize “happy coincidences” – both in travel and in life?

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Feb 11 2010

The Stink Burger Debacle of 2006

Posted by Anne

hamburger66cElizabeth and I have written many letters to each other over the past 5 years.  Many.  Each is special, and each is distinct.  But every so often, there are letters—stories—that stand out from the others.  Elizabeth’s favorite has always been my “Stink Burger Letter”, which she referenced back in August.  We’ve received at least one request for the Stink Burger story (thank you Kitchen Witch!), and since it’s an apropos story for Life in Pencil, I will indulge (or bore) you.  Enjoy.  

Once upon a time, I decided to get my PhD.  And deep into my doctoral education, I temporarily burned out.  I was tired.  Weary.  Done.  Confused.  And so I did what any privileged 20-something would do.  I went on a road trip—alone—on a self proclaimed “summer of self-discovery and relaxation”.  My journey took me coast to coast, and along the way, I landed in Flagstaff, Arizona.  This was to be my home-base for some important activities.  In typical Anne fashion, I had it all planned:  1) Hike in Grand Canyon, 2) Fly-fish in Grand Canyon, 3) Gain insight about my purpose in this world while doing said activities.  Good list, right? 

I made it through my Grand Canyon hike.  I’ll spare you the details, as I know you’re more concerned about the Stink Burger situation.  Suffice to say that the hike was beautiful, dusty, lonely, and hot as hell.  So that evening, I did what any wise traveler would do when feeling physically exhausted and lonely.  I looked for a really good meal. 

Enter…the Stink Burger.  I got back to town, cleaned off the canyon dust, and headed to a nearby microbrewery.  The “Stink Burger” had come highly recommended, and I’m not one to argue with layers of meat, roasted garlic cloves (hence the name), and an onion ring piled high on a bun.  I settled into a beat-up wooden chair, and the waiter looked at me a little suspiciously, clearly wondering why this slightly sad-looking woman was alone…in a bar…ordering a big greasy burger.  I matched his gaze, and then I ordered that Stink Burger with confidence!  With gusto!  It arrived, and I was thrilled to tuck in, having truly earned my dose of saturated fat.  (Hiking + existential soul-searching burns tons of calories, in case you’re wondering.)  The hunks of garlic were soft and mild, and the onion ring was so perfect I considered ordering an entire side of them.  I wrote a letter to my sweetie (now my hubby), read a few pages of a book, and washed down that mighty stink burger with a malty brown ale.  I was feeling better already.  And then… 

The crippling food poisoning didn’t hit until the next morning, getting ready to head out for activity #2, fly-fishing.  And when it hit, it hit big.  There I was, a pitiful lonely traveler trapped in my room in an Arizona hostel, puking my guts out.  And let me tell you folks, a hostel is not the ideal location if you’re suffering the ramifications of a poorly cooked Stink Burger.  I kept hoofing it down the hall to the bathroom, where well-meaning, patchouli-scented hippies would stare at me, but never speak.  I must have looked odd to them—pale, unhappy, and lacking a guitar in my hand or a mellow smile on my face. 

I spent the next 24 hours face-down on my hostel mattress, listening to the sound of the train outside my window, and replayed the same question, over and over in my head.  What the hell am I doing here?  I wished I had a friend with me.  My boyfriend.  My sister.  ANYONE who knew me.  I thought I felt lonely at the rim of the Canyon.  Nope…this was loneliness.  Puking over a Stink Burger in a likewise stinky hostel. 

grandcanyonI tried to remember why I was taking this trip.  Something to do with feeling overwhelmed, growing weary of graduate school, and needing an escape.  And I guess I thought I needed to “escape” totally on my own.  I was only partially right.

That entire trip, I felt free, which was exactly how I wanted to feel.  But I’d never expected that freedom to feel so hollow.  Back at the canyon’s rim, I was surrounded by people…couples, families, and grandparents in embroidered t-shirts and awkward-looking baseball caps.  For that whole day, I stared at people.  At little kids delightfully licking ice cream cones.  At parents attempting to take pictures of their too-cool-for-canyon teenagers. And I stared at the canyon—surreal and massive. 

Did my “summer of self-discovery” accomplish what I had intended?  Well, yes and no.  I learned that as much as I love adventures and exploration, I had reached a point where I was very ready to share them with other people.  It was the beginning of my need to feel…you guessed it…settled.  And I learned something else.  In case you’re wondering, you can’t plan the contents of your own existential awakening.  And my Stink Burger was proof.  

The End. 

Ever gone on a trip to shake things up?  Discover yourself?  Any traveling misadventures to share? 

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Feb 8 2010

Committed

Posted by Elizabeth

When I heard that Elizabeth Gilbert had written a new book, I was nervous.  I wasn’t sure I wanted to read Committed, which picks up where Eat Pray Love leaves off, chronicling her difficult decision to marry Felipe, the man she literally sails off into the sunset with at the end of the story.  There was no way this book could ever live up to EPL, for I am one of those women – and I know there are many of us – for whom EPL changed my life.  Although Maikael and I had already been toying with the idea of taking eight months out of our life to embark on a journey of self-discovery around the world, EPL sealed the deal for me.  Inspired by her tale, we even spent two weeks lapping up life and culture in Ubud, Bali, which she details in such a mesmerizing way.  For me, Gilbert’s prose captured what I was feeling but was unable to put into words at that time in my life, feelings about being caught between a conventional and unconventional life, about being unsure what I wanted from life, about not knowing who I was or what made me happy in the slightest.  As different as our lives were – I was ten years her junior and not considering divorce – I identified with Liz Gilbert.

committed

But I know not everyone felt this way.  When my former bookclub read Eat Pray Love, our group was fiercely divided by equal amounts of adoration and dislike of the book.  Some felt her journey was trite, her head inflated, her love story too tidy and saccharine.  Other just simply didn’t “get it,” which was unfathomable to me, who had found such connection and solace in the book.  As I traveled around the globe, the subject of the book often came up in conversations with fellow explorers (it really was a worldwide phenomenon), and, even amongst the highly self-selecting group of long-term travelers, the division of opinions was just as acute.  Love it or hate it, the book clearly made people feel something.

However, when I learned that Elizabeth Gilbert was coming to town – and that $35 could buy me two tickets and a hardback copy of the book – I was Committed.  So last Wednesday night, me and 500 fellow Liz Gilbert fans, including my former therapist, filed into an expansive ballroom at the University of New Mexico, which was stuffed to the gills with conference seating and estrogen.  The audience was one loud hum, buzzing with the anticipation of a cultural icon about to speak.  But a loud hush fell over the room as soon as Elizabeth Gilbert stepped to the stage, a flowy grey cardigan draped over her thin frame, her tousled blond hair pulled away from her face in a messy twist, a genuine smile etched on her face.

For the next 30 minutes she talked about the process of writing Committed, which represents the fruits of her second attempt to write a follow-up book to EPL. She spent two years writing a 500-page manuscript…and then threw the entire thing away. As she spoke these words, I’m pretty sure I heard myself groan audibly.  I’ve never written anything 500 pages in length, but I’ve written something a tenth of the size, and even throwing that away is vomit-inducing.  Gilbert discussed how difficult it was to ditch the manuscript, one in which she had received a considerable advance from her publisher and who, after two years of work, was soon expecting a publishable book.  “But the book was horrible,” she said.  “It wasn’t ‘me.’  It wasn’t written in my voice.  It was written in the voice of who I thought I should be after the success of Eat Pray Love.”  Her best bet, she reasoned, was to take six months off to figure out the follow-up book she was meant to write.  In the meantime she gardened.  And one day, with her fingers dug hard into the soft earth, a single sentence – the sentence that was to become the opening line to the book – simply came to her.

Late one afternoon in the summer of 2006, I found myself in a small village in northern Vietnam, sitting around a sooty kitchen fire with a number of local women whose language I did not speak, trying to ask them questions about marriage.

From there she “took the sentence for a walk across the page,” and proceeded to pen Committed in a mere two months.

gilbert

While not all of us have the luxury of time or literary advances, as I sat in that overheated ballroom, surrounded by a sea of like-minded New Mexicans, it dawned me on me what a powerful lesson her process presented for living a life in pencil.   There is nothing more important in this life than learning to be YOU – whoever you are.  In fact, is it even something we should have to learn? If we are skilled and equipped to be anything, it’s to be ourselves.  And yet, how difficult it can be to discover and then speak our voice, whether we are writers or not.  It shouldn’t be easier to be someone else, but that is often the case.  Borrowing someone else’s tastes, pleasures, preferences, and aversions is a simple game of mimicry; to truly face who we are, and not who we think we should be, is a lifelong project.

When we are living a life that isn’t attuned to who we are, it’s been my experience that things take forever to manifest themselves.  Everything feels like a Sisyphean task, making it difficult to differentiate between sheer hard work towards a difficult goal and being engaged in the “wrong” thing.  The difference, I think, is that when we are living a life attuned to who we are, things come more easily, more quickly.  While there are bumps in the road, setbacks, and hard uphill battles, the effort feels purposeful.  We feel a deep sense that, while the path is bumpy, it’s the right path to be traveling down.  No amount of construction can reshape the wrong path.

While we talk often here at Life in Pencil about making changes within the parameters of our existing lives, Gilbert’s story teaches us that sometimes life requires us to start over.  If a plan is born from a place that doesn’t feel true or authentic, no amount of “editing” is going to make it right.  Sometimes, major revisions are required.  Sometimes, we have to throw the baby out with the bathwater.  Sometimes, we have to start from scratch.  When Gilbert threw away that first draft, without another story idea in sight, she was facing a problem that needed to be solved, a puzzle of the highest order.  “A puzzle,” she said, “is just a crisis with the volume knob turned down.”  But rather than panicking, she trusted that time – and a vegetable garden – would eventually bring order to the puzzle.  “Problems are like cheap underwear,” a Buddhist monk friend once told her.  “Eventually they wear themselves out.”

And it’s true, isn’t it?  Over time, even the most pernicious problems wear themselves dull and raw, until we genuinely wonder what we were ever worried about in the first place.  Such was the case with Gilbert’s book, and such may be the case with any dilemma, crisis, or life change that you might be facing.  Sometimes, the best thing we can do is take a break and trust that the process will work itself out.  I have always believed that the only way out is through.  Whether we are talking about a failed book project, a career crisis, or a relationship gone awry, there is no easy shortcut or “work around” (as my computer programming husband would say).  We need those seemingly impossible puzzles, those failed attempts, to push us through to the other side.

Just last week I was cleaning out my office, and I discovered a draft of the first essay I had ever written nearly six years ago.  Back then, I was a graduate student in counseling psychology, and a career in writing was the furthest thing from my mind.  And yet, much like Elizabeth Gilbert, I was drying my hair one morning before school when a single line popped into my head.  I immediately scrambled to write it down, and proceeded to skip my morning classes – which I never did – to write an entire essay, which tumbled forth from that one line.  I wasn’t sure where this line had come from, or where it was going, but two years later I submitted that essay to a local writers’ conference.  I remember feeling very proud of my effort, a reflection of the best I could produce at the time.  But reading this essay six years later, while there are lines that are still gems, it struck me that it just wasn’t very good!  The ideas are there, but the execution is sloppy, amateur.  It dawned on me how much I have grown as a writer in that time span, but how necessary it was to write those first stumbling drafts on my way through to becoming a writer.  And when I read this post in another six years, I’m sure I’ll be struck by the same thought.

Gilbert’s friend, an artist, often reminds her, “The creative product is the unidentical twin of the dream you had in your head.”  In other words, what we produce while pursuing the creative process – be it writing a book, baking a pie, or even living life itself – is often a flawed copy of the perfect image we held in our head when we conceived the idea.  It seems to me that the purpose isn’t to create a facsimile but to simply chase after that image to the best of our abilities.  Whatever we produce will never be as perfect as we’d hoped.  But with time and experience, I think our image and the real thing grow closer together.  Just like Gilbert’s book, this blog, as imperfect as it is, couldn’t exist without that first humble essay.  And whatever goal you are working towards in your life couldn’t be accomplished without whatever fumbling efforts you are making right now.

Are you a fan of Eat, Pray, Love (or not)? Have you read Committed?  What lessons do you take away from Gilbert’s process that I have missed?  Do you think that sometimes starting over is the best thing?

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Jan 25 2010

Weekend Getaway

Posted by Elizabeth

The cutest ice cream store in Denver!

The cutest ice cream store in Denver!

I’ve never been much of a “weekend getaway” kind of gal.  The amount of planning required to execute a two-day escape takes longer than the trip itself, with travel time eating a significant percentage of the 48-hour respite.  And the whole affair of “getting away” for two days, which is supposed to be restful, usually leaves me feeling more exhausted than if I would have simply stayed at home.  When life is full, weekends are for recuperating.  But when life becomes an exercise in returning emails as soon as they hit your inbox — when you are playing The Waiting Game – a weekend getaway is in order, which is why we spent the past few days in Denver.  I’d always considered the weekend getaway an escape from the stresses of the workweek, a time to chill out in the country, sit in a spa, and murmur just how relaxing getting away is.  But what I came to realize over the last 48 hours, at least for myself, is that weekend getaways are for the times in life when you are bored out of your skull; when you need to shake things up, wrench yourself from your routine, and WAKE UP.

Indeed.

Indeed.

During out time in Denver, we stayed with our friends, Rose and Stu, who have a hip condo in the heart of the trendy Capitol Hill neighborhood.  For 48 hours, I remembered what it was like to live in the pulsating folds of a cosmopolitan city.  We walked to fashionable diners in their neighborhood, lunching on fancy-pants macaroni and cheese.  We strolled the city in search of impossibly fluffy pineapple upside down pancakes.  We hunched towards the candlelight, talking about life in dimly-lit restaurants over chorizo-squash enchiladas, and sparring with our forks over the last bites of award-winning desserts.  We lounged in hipster bars with rough-hewn tables and bizarre 70s cartoons splashed across screens, sending shards of pale light over the patrons.  This is not my life: it was once, and it might be again someday.  But it’s not my life right now, and that’s what made the weekend so fun; it was a chance to live in an alternate universe for two days, to getaway from whatever “normal” dictates my life.  And perhaps that is the very point of the getaway: to try on a different identity for a few days, to reflect what we might like for our lives, if only in a small dose.

Denver's ugliest sculpture, which I referred to as "a steaming pile of organs."  Bonus:  it lights up at night!

Denver's ugliest sculpture, which I referred to as "a steaming pile of organs." Bonus: it lights up at night!

I’ve always equated “weekend getaway” with “forced rest and relaxation,” and for the past several years the weekend getaway has never appealed to me because my life was so overflowing with activity that the idea of adding more activity into my free time felt completely unnecessary.  I don’t think a weekend getaway will ever be for relaxation; I can do that more easily at home.  But now I see the utility of a weekend getaway in order to jazz up life a bit, and with this definition in mind, the time is ripe for weekend getaways.  For the first time in a long time, my life is kind of boring.  I’m not exactly complaining, but I’m also not used to this feeling of boredom.  I am accustomed to activity and purpose guiding my days, and, without it, I’m seeking action in other realms of my life – the realms that have traditionally been dedicated to relaxation.  My relationship to the weekend getaway has changed because the circumstances of my life have changed.  I imagine that city dwellers find retreat in the country or some otherwise diabolically opposite situation of their regular lives at homes.  As for me, I’d take a getaway to a bustling city over a spa-filled weekend any day.

And you know what?  For the whole weekend I almost forgot that I was playing The Waiting Game.  Almost.

What do you think of weekend getaways?  Are they for activity or relaxation?  How do you make the most of your getaways?  What do you use your weekends for:  recreation, relaxation, or productivity?

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Jan 22 2010

Nothing to Fear

Posted by Anne 

The view of the mountains from our sunrise hike destination.

The view of the mountains from our sunrise hike destination.

I don’t consider myself a particularly brave person.  In fact, I’d go so far as to call myself a total chicken.  I’ve never seen this as a huge detriment…I’ve always figured that my sense of fear is simply a highly developed survival mechanism.  Call it intuition.  Call it instinct.  If these were prehistoric times, I’d be the first to jump from my bed (or hut) and just feel that danger was coming.  I’m pretty sure I’d save my village.  However…these aren’t prehistoric times.  No predators in my neighborhood last time I checked.  My world is a ridiculously safe one.  And so lately I wonder…when does my “fear factor” stop protecting, and start inhibiting? 

My sense of fear goes way back.  As a child, I hated ghost stories because I believed the ghost stories, and felt (literally) haunted for weeks afterwards.  (Frankly, I’m still trying to get over The Sixth Sense, and I was 18 when that came out.)  And then there was Disneyland.  When the ride Splash Mountain opened, I took one look at the horrifyingly steep “drop” at the end of the ride, and decided there wasn’t a soul who could drag me into one of those imitation log boats.  (To this day, I own a t-shirt that says “I rode Splash Mountain!”  Yes, I’m not only a scaredy-cat, I’m apparently a liar too.)

Since that trip to the happiest (and scariest) place on earth, nothing has quieted my overactive fear mechanism.  And so the upshot of all this fear—rides, heights, ghosts—is avoidance.  For as long as I can remember, I tend to steer clear of scary movies, and the feeling of freefall.  In college, I famously pronounced, “I have no desire to be in touch with my adrenaline.”  And like I said, this never presented much of a problem.  But recently, my fear aversion tactics were challenged. 

On our recent trip to Chile, I was forced to confront some slightly more adult fears.  Airplane turbulence.  The absence of leafy greens for a solid week.  And then the kicker…our sunrise hike.  It sounds pleasant enough, but let me tell you—I was convinced that danger lurked.  It was the final day of our 6-day trek, and my husband was adamant that we reach a rather famous (and very rocky) lookout point by dawn.  I thus deduced that we’d be hiking an unknown trail for 2 hours in the DARK.  We discussed it over dinner the night before.  And sitting over my plate of Chilean lamb and mashed potatoes, I heard my voice catch in my throat as I tearfully asked my husband, “Do you really think it will be okay?”  No matter how he responded, I was determined to be totally—unreasonably—freaked.  Loads of people (and guided groups for that matter) do the exact same hike, but I wasn’t convinced.  I saw cliffs.  Injuries.  Myself airlifted out of a national park.    And then something odd happened…

We went anyway.  Despite my fear, I went.  For my husband (and him only), I hiked that trail in the dark.  And it was…drumroll please…

What I would have missed, had a succumbed to my fears.

What I would have missed, had I succumbed to my fears.

Totally fine.  The moon was bright.  The trail was easy to follow.  And when I managed to find a moment free of fear, I noticed the clear sky, and the scattered pattern of stars.  The mountains became peaceful silhouettes, instead of looming death-traps.  We made the hike slowly and carefully, and finally found ourselves at the lookout point with probably 30 other death-defying(?) hikers.   It was beautiful.  Fun even.  And yes…also a little scary.  And I don’t regret it for one minute. 

Later that morning (post hike), I sipped my nasty instant coffee and came to a realization.  Sometimes…my “intuitive” sense of fear is nothing more than my overactive imagination.  Much of the time, my vivid images of dangerous consequences and fatal injuries are simply unrealistic.  And so I wonder.  I wonder what I lose by allowing anxiety to wash over me, filling my brain with images of tragedy rather than beauty or excitement.  I wonder what I miss.  How many sunrises? 

You’ll never see me sky-diving, and I’ll never enjoy being scared.  But every so often, it might serve me well to push aside the fear in my head, and see what happens—for real. 

AUTHOR’S NOTE:
In case you’re wondering…by the end of our trip, I was injured exactly 3 times.  Brace yourselves for the following brushes with death:
1.  On Day 3 of our trek, I fell down ONE STEP on the deck of our private cabin
2.  On Day 4 of our trek, I SLIPPED in the shower and acquired a healthy-sized bruise
3.  On the 5th and final day, my nose began to peel as the result of a SUNBURN

As you can see, despite my worst fears, all injuries were sustained due to stupidity or general clumsiness.  

Are you brave?  Or a total chicken like me?  Do you like the rush of adrenaline, or avoid it like the plague?  And when have you done something that scared you, and found that it paid off in the end?

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Jan 14 2010

Gearing Up

Posted by Anne

I’m back.  I just returned from a 2-week trip to Chile…I ate, I hiked, and I took a break from cyberspace.  (It felt pretty good.)  And as I suspected, a 2-week trip to a continent I’d never visited left me with no shortage of writing material.  Today, I could write about cultural differences (several), Chilean cuisine (lots of meat and unfortunate instant coffee), or the kindness of the Chilean people (vast).  But there was one moment of the trip that keeps drifting back to my consciousness—a tiny moment, but isn’t it the tiny moments that sometimes make the biggest impression?  This moment involves….gear. 

The scene as we got ready to embark on the trek...

The scene around us as we prepared to embark on the trek...

You see, a large chunk of our vacation involved a “trek” in the Southern Patagonia mountains.  We hiked in one of Chile’s national parks for 5 days, hiking to a new lodge/hostel (refugio) each night.  Many people do this trek, and they have one thing in common.  Lots and lots of GEAR.  Over the course of the trek, I can’t tell you how many thousands of dollars worth of outdoor paraphernalia we encountered.  North Face.  Mountain Hardware.  REI.  Lowe Alpine. In other words, lots of Gore-Tex, and lots of $$$$.  I became an expert at identifying how long someone had been hiking, whether they were camping or not, whether they were American or European…all according to their gear.  Until, on the 3rd day of trekking, I saw a man I couldn’t place. 

He passed us on the trail going the opposite direction.  We exchanged the usual “hola,” and kept walking.  But this man was different.  He was probably in his late 50’s or 60’s, with a thick head of graying hair.  His beard was full and scraggly, and his eyes bright.  He wore actual cotton trousers—not the ultralight, breathable, synthetic, quick-drying trekking pants I’d seen on (literally) every other hiker.  His shoes looked sturdy, but probably cost about a third as much as my super-duper snazzy new hiking boots.  And the finishing touch…his outerwear.  This was no synthetic North Face layer…no Lowe Alpine rain jacket.  He wore a faded, cozy, corduroy blazer.  He carried a tiny, pitiful-looking backpack that couldn’t have held much more than a water bottle and a toothbrush.  He looked like he’d stepped out of another hike, and another era. 

In short, this man was very short on gear.  My first reaction was concern.  How on EARTH will this man survive if it rains and he doesn’t have an appropriately quick-drying baselayer?  Does he have an adequate supply of snacks?  But honestly, when I think back on that trek, I can probably say that man probably had everything he needed.  The trail was incredibly well-marked.  The water from the streams was drinkable.  If you can hike a good 7 miles, there is always food to be found at the next lodge.  There are people everywhere, ready to lend helping hands or supply you with blissful chunks of chocolate.  You don’t need much.  But we, as a culture, love our gear.  And I am no exception.       

The start of the trail.  Almost all you need.

The start of the trail. Almost all you need.

I wonder about this need for gear.  We love having it, whether it’s gear for our children (the essential stroller), for our kitchens (electronic solutions for everything), or for our hobbies (where to begin?).  We love acquiring the gadgets, the outfits, and the accessories that allow us to feel safe.  To feel prepared.   We love knowing that we’ve bought everything that can keep us comfortable.  But might we overdo it just a tad?  When does gear become, simply, stuff?  When do we let go?  When do we stop buying and start believing in our ability to improvise, or even share with others?

I wonder about my need for gear.  And I think I’ll probably always be someone who over-buys, and over-prepares.  But I will remember that lone hiker on that dusty Patagonian trail. I’d like to remind myself that sometimes all we need is a well-marked trail, and a community around us.  

What is our obsession with having all the stuff we need?  How about you?  Are you a junkie for GEAR…not just outdoor gear, but any kind of gear?  Or are you content to keep your possessions more simple?

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Jan 7 2010

Travel Buddies

Posted by Anne

travel_suitcaseThere are certain experiences that can put a relationship (either romantic or platonic) to the test.  Travel is one of them.  You might know what I’m talking about.  Have you ever traveled with someone you believed to be a kindred spirit, only to discover they have odder quirks and pickier taste in food than you ever realized?  Two days into your week of relaxation and you’re about to slap your friend with a street map.  It happens.  A perfect travel buddy is a rare find.  Like true love, it’s a match that should have been the subject of sonnets or ballads, songs or myths.   

In my experience, there are two fundamental factors that make the difference between “travel-buddy-kismet”, and “travel-buddy-kiss-of-death”.  In my view, they are…

  • Propensity for Planning AND
  • Money 

The latter is pretty obvious.  Ever been the only one who wants to spring for a nice meal while everyone else is fine with peanut butter?  Ever been the only one who’s fine with the colorful (and cheaper) hostel in lieu of the posh resort?  Awkward.  And potentially difficult to transcend.  Whether you’re a high roller or thrifty traveler, it’s easiest to see new places with someone on a similar budget. 

As for the issue of planning.  You’d think I might be one to prefer a traveling companion who shares my need to book everything in advance and strategize my restaurant visits.  I would have thought so too, until a few years ago.   One summer, deep in the midst of graduate school, I left for a 6-week adventure in Europe with a friend of mine from middle/high school.  We were (and are) incredibly close friends.  But I think we both wondered how well we would travel together.  As it turns out…perfectly.  We were on the same page with budget, so that helped.  But when it came to planning and spending each day, we actually weren’t so identical.   

We spent a LOT of time engaging in this activity...

We spent a LOT of time engaging in this activity...

You see, when I travel, I have an unfortunate tendency to approach new places like an assignment.  Using a guide book as my guide (duh), I take every nugget of advice to heart.  When Fodors or Frommers calls something a “must see”…I’m inclined to believe I MUST see it!  And so my travels can become a little frantic—driven by an eagerness to check off the sights, because who knows when I’ll have the opportunity again.  My friend, on the other hand, took a different approach.  Sure, she understood the necessity of seeing certain sights—she was on board with the Sistine Chapel, for example.  But she taught me something new, as well.  She taught me the beauty of finding a quiet café, tea room, or gelateria, and simply….sitting.  With HER as my guide, our 6-week tour included fewer items to be checked off, and more moments to soak up a culture, indulge in an afternoon scone, and blissfully drown in an endless pot of perfect tea.  We were different, but she converted me.  And I loved it. 

I’m particularly aware of traveling companions these days.  This winter, my husband and I have the opportunity to escape the Northwest drizzle and freezing fog (didn’t know that existed til I moved here, by the way).  Yep, we’re heading south of the equator—to spend two weeks in Chile.  Now, we’ve certainly traveled world_maptogether before, and I’m happy to report it’s been successful.  But this will be our first time to travel together internationally, and I hope we’re as compatible as I think we are.  I believe we’ll complement each other, since my husband is more on the…spontaneous side.  So while I’m making sure we have a roof over our heads and well-reviewed food in our bellies, I trust he’ll take after that friend of mine, and remind me to savor the random moments of not knowing. 

Do you have a favorite friend or family member to travel with?  And why do they make such a good traveling buddy?

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Dec 28 2009

Magic Moments

Posted by Elizabeth

I am on a plane back to Albuquerque today, left pondering the events of the past week of my Christmas in Mexico.  But the things that stand out to me aren’t events at all.  They are moments – simple moments, that have been forever etched into my mind.

DSCF0083One night we played poker with my mother-in-law, Cecilia’s, poker buddies, a group of women from all corners of the globe who come together to drink tequila, eat good food, and take one another for a few pesos every Thursday.  Cecilia’s friend, Pilar, told me, “Jueves son sagrados.”  Thursdays are sacred.  I had never played poker, nevertheless a game conducted in Spanish, and I was nervous.  Nervous to be out of my comfort zone.  Nervous to be out of control. But I soon learned the names of the different cards, how to pass, how to call, how to raise, and how to begin having fun. Regardless of barriers of age and language, we were soon a well-oiled machine in sync, collectively ooing when the right combination of cards was placed on the table, and sighing in disappointment when they weren’t.  My dad, who speaks very little Spanish, was soon raking in the chips and sharing telling glances with me to help my game along.  I squealed and clapped my hands when I won my first round, and when we settled our bets at the end of the night I came out money ahead, and wondered what I had been so nervous about in the first place.  Years from now, I’m not sure I’ll remember how many rounds I won, but I think I’ll remember a night where everyone had an equally good time.

DSCF0085A few nights later, Cecilia and I took over the kitchen to prepare classic American dishes for a very Mexican Christmas.  Cooking has never been an activity that we’ve shared, and we’d never spent so many hours in the kitchen together.  But we successfully bobbed and weaved our way through her tiny kitchen, finding ourselves clueless in the middle of making marshmallows, furiously spreading the quickly-cooling confection on a greasy cookie sheet, while strings of white sugar spun around us.  Halfway through our cooking extravaganza, when Maikael and my dad went out to run an errand, she paused and took out a bottle of Bailey’s from the pantry.  “You want some?” she asked.  I’d never had Bailey’s, but I found myself quickly accepting.  With the heavy, milky liquid swimming around the ice cubes, we silently clinked our glasses together and shared a quiet moment, pausing just for a moment in the eye of the storm.  Years from now, I’m not sure that I’ll remember what we made that night, but I think I’ll remember the sound the ice cubes made as they swirled around the glass.

Maikael and my dad, Senor Fogonero

Maikael and my dad, Senor Fogonero

On Christmas Eve we made our way over to Pilar’s house, where we were amongst the first guests to arrive.  Someone was trying – unsuccessfully – to get a fire started, and before he knew it, my dad was suckered into keeping the fire going all night.  He hopped up every so often to tend to the fire, poking gingerly at the simmering logs and politely declining the suggestions to use candles and canola oil to keep it going.  By the end of the night, he was officially known as Senor Fogonero, the man who shovels coal into a steam-powered locomotive.  Years from now, I’m not sure I’ll remember who was at that party, but I think I’ll remember that, for a brief moment in time, my dad was The King of the Fire.

DSCF0110Later that evening we made our way downstairs to Pilar’s driveway, where a Nativity scene draped in psychedelic flashing lights stood.  The party gathered in a semicircle around the manger, our coats gathered tightly around us, nimbly holding oversized candles.  Pilar’s granddaughters each held a side of a scarf, where baby Jesus was carefully placed between the two corners.  Then, they began gently rocking him as the group started singing Las Posadas. We didn’t know the words, but we peered at the lyrics over someone’s shoulder, humming along, the soft glow of the candlelight illuminating our faces.  Before he was placed in the manger, Pilar passed around the figurine of baby Jesus, and we each kissed him.  Years from now, I’m not sure I’ll remember the words to the song, but I think I’ll remember huddling in the cold and, for a fleeting moment, truly experiencing the spirit of the holidays.

Senora Claus

Senora Claus

We went upstairs for dinner at 11 pm, a multicourse affair with a steaming terrine of potato leek soup, that famous salted cod dish, pork loin dusted with chile powder, pork loin baked with white wine and dried fruits, and a true buffet of desserts, from rum cake to German stolen.  We laughed and ate and talked, covering topics as diverse as bad jokes and the persistent drug problems that plague Mexico.  Just before dinner was served, Pilar’s granddaughter, Natalia, shimmied her way out of the bedroom in a Santa Claus sleeper.  “Senora Claus is here!” someone shouted, before Natalia ate a piece of grasshopper pie and promptly fell asleep on the couch, her red suit peeking out from underneath the blanket.  Years from now, I’m not sure I’ll remember everything we ate that night, but I think I’ll remember the feeling of being warmly brought into the fold as a foreigner on Christmas Eve.

Life is a series of moments.  And yet, these moments are alarmingly fleeting:  they are so easy to pass by that we often forget them before we even have a chance to remember.  It’s a bit like lucid dreaming, where we must train ourselves to memorize these moments while they’re happening, without trying so hard that we’re pulled out of the moment altogether.  This is a delicate balance, and our difficulty in achieving this balance might explain why we insist on treating life as a series of events, even when we know that it’s the moments that matter most:  the crash and bang of events is simply easier to inscribe on our memories than the whisper of moments.  But it’s those whispers that have the most to teach about better living a life in pencil: lessons about losing control, being quiet, having a small but special place in the world, shifting our focus away from “things,” and being made to feel a part of something.  Although the lessons are quiet, they resound louder than most events ever will.

What small, but special, moments will you hold near and dear to your heart from this holiday season?

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Dec 24 2009

The Good Night

Today we continue our Holiday Season Extravaganza.  Between now and December 25, we will share what it means to celebrate the holidays — Life in Pencil style.

Posted by Elizabeth

Christmas Eve in Mexico is so different than the December 24ths of my childhood.  There were never any hard and fast traditions growing up; rather, each phase of life offered a different touchstone.  When I was very young we spent the evening with my dad’s family, opening gifts in my grandparents’ musty basement, passing through a curtain of vintage beads to get to the Christmas tree.  On those evenings, my dad would point to the blinking lights in the sky – my grandparents lived directly in the flight path of the nearby airport – and would wonder aloud if Rudolph was one of them.  When I got a little older, Christmas Eve was spent at my aunt and uncle’s house, which always boasted – and still does – an enormous tree with outdoor lights slung to and fro on the branches.  There we maintained the Christmas tradition of English crackers, popping the tissue-wrapped cylinder open in a noisy flourish to reveal a paper crown, a charm, and a really terrible joke that no one was smart enough to decipher.   And when I got older still, we fled the suburbs to the comforts of the city, taking in A Christmas Carol at one of the downtown theatres, until my mom decided she couldn’t take one more year of Scrooge.   In those years, I remember dreamy driving tours of West Seattle’s grandest homes, boasting magnificent light displays, and ending the evening over flaky fish and chips at Spud’s – the only fish and chips I’d eat.  Every year was different and, unlike some families who open gifts or go to evening church services, the 24th always played second fiddle to the main event the next day.

The streets of San Miguel de Allende on Christmas Eve, 2007

The streets of San Miguel de Allende on Christmas Eve, 2007

In Mexico, Christmas Eve is called Nochebuena; literally, “good night,” a term I’ve always been fond of.  In Mexico, Christmas Eve isn’t just a big deal; it’s the main event.  And when we celebrate tonight, we’ll be following in the footsteps of the generations who have passed before us, because December 24 in Mexico is soaked in ritual and tradition.  First, there will be a posada. In the nine days leading up to Nochebuena, communities throughout Mexico gather to reenact the Holy Family’s search for lodging in Bethlehem.  While public posadas are held, we’re lucky enough to have been invited to a private posada at Pilar’s house, a friend of my mother-in-law’s.  Here, the room will be divided into two groups, each engaging in a “call and response” song, one group asking and the other group denying, over and over again, a room at the inn.  Finally, the Holy Family is granted permission, everyone is joyous, and ponche, a spicy holiday beverage, is served.  I do not know the song Las Posadas, I have absolutely no idea how this will go, but I’m okay with the ambiguity, safe in the arms of tradition.

The last Christmas feast in Mexico did not involve salted cod.  Which is why I undoubtedly have a big smile on my face.

The last Christmas feast in Mexico did not involve salted cod...which is why I undoubtedly have a big smile on my face.

Afterwards, we’ll eat a traditional Nochebuena feast, the centerpiece a dried salted cod called bacalao, an unfortunate import from Spain.  I can’t say that I’m thrilled about supping on dried salted cod — I would prefer a sweet honey-glazed ham – but I will cheerily eat the cod because I know that, across Mexico, everyone will be sitting down to a version of the same meal, and sometimes it’s more important to be part of something bigger than oneself than to be gastronomically satisfied.

A real nacimiento.  You'll notice that "el diablo" is always lurking somewhere in the scene.

A real nacimiento. You'll notice that "el diablo" is always lurking somewhere in the scene.

At some point during the evening, Baby Jesus will be placed in the household nacimiento, or Nativity.  In Mexico, a Nativity scene – not a Christmas tree – created from clay or plaster figurines, heno (Spanish moss), and other natural elements, is the centerpiece of holiday decorating.  Entire market stalls are devoted to nacimiento supplies, and individual displays can be quite elaborate, ranging from tabletop displays to room-sized affairs.  Jesus’s crib is left empty until Nochebuena, when he is carefully placed in the bed of straw.  In San Miguel de Allende, the community nacimiento fills the central plaza, and when people exit midnight mass from the grand cathedral, a tangled nest of pink spires, they emerge to find Jesus in the manger surrounded by a menagerie of live animals.

In San Miguel's live Nativity!

In San Miguel's live Nativity!

Christmas Eve lasts well into the wee hours of Christmas morning, the solemnity of what is truly a religious holiday punctuated by celebration.  And it is this tension that makes Christmas in Mexico so dynamic, the hoards of church-goers mingling with bursts of fireworks, posada songs with live burros, nacimientos with roving bands of barking dogs.  The last time we were in Mexico, I don’t remember sleeping a great deal on Christmas Eve, and when I finally drifted off, the roosters began crowing.  It is not a quiet affair, but it is an oddly peaceful one, not defined by gift-giving — which doesn’t happen until Epiphany, in January — but by tradition.

Although I don’t know for sure, I suspect there isn’t a lot of the “doing your own thing” that characterized the Christmas Eves of my youth.  We talk a great deal in our culture about creating our own memories and traditions, and I think that’s important – sometimes for our sanity, if nothing else.  But I think there’s also something to be said for embracing ritual, taking part in the way things have always been done.  Maybe it’s because I don’t have any Christmas traditions that have carried me through the entirety of my life.  Maybe it’s because I wish Christmas Eve represented something more, something magical. Maybe, even in Mexico, that isn’t a realistic thing to wish for.  Maybe I’m being sappy and sentimental and completely unreasonable.  But it’s Christmas, right?  If there’s a time to be sappy and sentimental and unreasonable, it’s today, the good night.

However you spend your Nochebuena, I hope it is a “good night.”  Feliz Navidad!

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