Feast Day
We snaked our way through the dusty valley, curls of smoke rising from the blue mountains that loomed in the hazy distance, searching for the turnoff. Passing by a beautifully manicured golf course, a surprising sight in this desolate nowhere, we were finally stopped by an orange “Road Closed” sign. An officer from the Bureau of Indian Affairs pressed her palm out the window, informing us that the Las Conchas fire, which has claimed over 145,000 acres in two weeks, had made the route impassable. “So is the Cochiti Feast Day canceled?” we asked. “Not as far as I know,” she said, indicating that we weren’t even on the right road that would lead us to the pueblo. We turned around and passed the gas station, the attached mini-mart dark and shuttered in honor of the festivities, and nosed our way back along the winding road. After another false start we turned around again, and then again, as if we were playing a crazy game of pin-the-tail-on-the-donkey, finally following the line of cars at the unmarked intersection. “I can’t believe there isn’t any signage,” I remarked to Maikael, who dryly responded, “Are you really that surprised?”
As we parked our car at the foot of the pueblo, bass voices and drums booming in the distance, two tourists tumbled out of the car next to us. I knew they were tourists because they complained that a two hour trip from Taos had taken them nearly four, and the woman asked frantically what time the activities had begun. “When I called the pueblo office the man could only tell me that it would start somewhere between 10 and 11,” she fretted, clearly unfamiliar with the approximations that rule New Mexican time.
We followed the sounds of the singing and drumming to the plaza, where scores of pueblo members and visitors ringed the dusty square. In the middle danced every shape and size of man, woman and child, circumambulating the crusty earth. Some were covered in seafoam paint, others striped in black and white. Some shook giant rattles. Other wore fir boughs in their hair. The sun bore down hard as one wave of performers made way for the next, an event that would stretch on for hours, a never-ending chorus of sound. Although all homes are open to visitors on Feast Day, we had been invited to dine at the home of an acquaintance, the first time in six years that we’d been able to attend. “Just ask for the Governor’s House,” Rose had said, assuring me that everyone would know the way. After asking scores of people who had no idea where the Governor’s House was, we finally received vague directions. Abra and I stayed at the car while Maikael disappeared down the dirt road, returning minutes later. “That’s the one,” he said, pointing, miraculously, to an adobe house situated on a small hill just above our car. “But nobody’s home.”
We sat in the car, the baking midday sun plastering us to the seats, while we considered what to do. We hated to turn around after coming all this way, after all these years. But it was hot, Abra was fussy and, having prepared to enjoy a feast, we were famished. Just then, Maikael looked up and said, “Hey, isn’t that Rose?” Our friend’s eyes met ours and she let out a squeal of delight, clearly surprised that we had actually made it. We hugged her, equally surprised that we had found her. Inside the cool house my eyes wandered to a small altar, a framed photo of Rose’s father propped against a towering statue of the Virgin Mary. Ceremonial drums were stacked alongside the big screen television, a collision of past and present.
At the other end of the house I could see a dining room table set with dishes. “I got up real early to cook,” said Rose, who scurried amongst a throng of Crockpots that sat at the ready. We gathered around the table, and soon a host of small bowls were placed before us: posole, red chile, enchiladas, green chile stew, and a medley of salads. Unsure of Feast Day etiquette, I followed the lead of my tablemates, who took only very small portions – the intention is to eat at many homes – and quickly exited, making room for the next wave of people who sat patiently waiting in the living room, like the vestibule of a restaurant. “There’s room for two more at the table,” called Rose, the makeshift hostess. Afterward, while Abra contentedly crawled around the floor, we spoke with state senators, old friends and family members. A group of firefighters, brought in from Fort Apache, Arizona, to fight the blaze that roared just a few miles away, even stopped in to eat a quick meal before returning to the trenches. A chorus of “thank yous” and a wave of gratitude followed them out the door.
Abra started to yawn so we decided to head for home, an hour away and a world apart. As we drove back to Albuquerque my mind drifted, reflecting on the day. So often life here in the Wild West is frustrating, filled with hazy directions, dead ends and unexpected detours. What I find maddening about this place is what I find maddening about life in general: where are the clear sign posts to guide my journey? While I know that no such thing exists I keep beating my head against the cosmic wall, always searching, rarely trusting. Nothing ever unfolds quite as I expect it to, and yet through divinity I end up arriving exactly at the right place at the right time. There is a reason New Mexico is called “The Land of Enchantment,” for it is here, on days like this, that we enter the flow of life, celebrating small wonders, the fellowship of others, a bounty to share with friends and strangers alike.
I wish I had photos to share of all the wonderful sights I took in last Thursday. But in accordance with pueblo custom, no photography was allowed. As I overheard one woman say, “We’ll just have to keep the memories in our mind’s eye.” Instead, enjoy the above shot, which captures one of my favorite parts of living in New Mexico: the incomparable sunsets. Like my friend Lindsey, I’m becoming fairly obsessed with taking photos of the sky.




































